[MCR] Bugaboos / Purcell Mountains July 21-25

Just back from 5 days in the Bugs.  July 21-23 we had cold temps with rain, and snow above 2700m.  July 24 saw sun and warm temps which allowed for ascents of the NE Ridge and Kain Routes on Bugaboo Spire, although ledges and gullies were snowy.

 

All parties attempting the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire were turned back by rime covered rock and new snow (up to 20cm on the glacier).

 

Other obs:

• Extensive surface sluffing on July 24 including a climber triggered size 1 down the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col
• B-S Col also had some large rocks come down the climber's right side (stay left!)
• Howser towers are plastered with snow and large cornices
• Bugaboo glacier tongue is still snow covered (~1m)
• Limited (~15) snow free tent sites at Appleby Campground (bring a shovel!)
• All lakes are still mostly frozen
• Climax avalanches have damaged the trails in several places on the way to the hut and campground
• Continued hydroelectric issues at the Kain hut meant no heat, no hot water and only 4 working light bulbs by the time we left
• Defecating anywhere other than provided facilities is now prohibited in the park so bring some $ to donate to the "REST STOP #2" bag fund!

Dry climbing on Crescent Spire & Towers routes and great boot skiing back to the hut at the end of the day with all that snow !

 

Cheers,

Shaun King  ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide

www.mountainsense.ca  +1-250-505-5139

www.facebook.com/mountainsense

 

Pigeon Spire.JPG
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Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.JPG
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