[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 28, 2011

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 28, 2011 WEATHER In the Rockies and Columbia mountains this week we've had a lot of precipitation with heavy rains to 3300m+ and snow accumulations reported down to as low as 2200m in Rogers Pass. HAZARDS Climbers need to continue to pay attention especially to several significant ongoing hazards: Cornices -- huge cornices are being reported all over the interior ranges. Some recent cornice falls have been reported resulting in full depth avalanches (up to 2m deep, failing possibly on the early winter facets) several hundred metres wide. High alpine snow slopes -- the storm on July 3rd that deposited over 20cm of snow in many parts of the Rockies came with a lot of wind that has created large reactive windslabs, possibly as thick as 100cm overlying old crusts. This appears to be a persistent weak interface and has resulted in some impressively large slab avalanches. Care should be taken with large snow features especially on North to East aspects. Surface melt-freeze cycles may not have penetrated and healed this interface under especially thick windslabs. Rockfall -- lingering snow from the winter on high shaded aspects as well as recent storm snow is creating a widespread rockfall issue. Overnight freezes,. good timing and quick travel are required to manage this hazard where it exists. CONDITIONS In the Lake Louise group, guided parties were finding snow pockets up to 60cm deep after the storms a few days ago and challenging travel on mixed and ridgetop terrain (Victoria's S Ridge). Glacier routes such as Lefroy's W face and the approach slopes on Fay's W Ridge were climbed and reported in good condition, but after a good overnight freeze and crust recovery. Today a guided party on the Abbot Traverse in Rogers Pass reported isothermal snow, and constant rockfall and avalanches off Swanzy throughout the day. High elevation alpine routes such as Hungabee, Mt. Temple's E Ridge, Edith Cavell, and Sir Donald's NW Ridge are still not in condition, although on a drive by today Sir Donald looked like it might be coming into conditions shortly with continued warm, dry weather. The good news is that lower elevation rock routes have dried out over the past couple of days of good weather. Front range Rockies as well as many lower elevation classics in the Rockies' main ranges (Tower of Babel's N Face), Rogers Pass (Tupper's W Ridge), and the Kootenays (Gimli S Ridge) are in good early season condition. Good conditions are also being reported in the Bugaboos, where rock routes are drying out quickly and the excellent snow coverage is making for great travel on the glaciers. NORTHERN BC (Smithers/Terrace/Howsons) It sounds like it's been terrible weather in the north this summer with no signs of reprieve. Suffice it to say that guides within a couple hundred kilometers of Kitwanga have already resigned themselves to dreaming about how great the skiing will be next winter. Snowline this week was hovering around 1600m. Regards, Tom Wolfe ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.