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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 4th, 2011
Summer is finally here below 3000m. Dry rock, good snow travel and warm air. Above 3000m it is still seriously snowy but that snow makes for some fine climbing when you have fine timing.
Concerns.
While the frozen morning snow is a blessing, the melting snow is hucking rocks, dropping cornices and sliding wet and fast in the afternoon heat. In the past few days I have seen a few big, ugly and greasy wet slides coming out of steep, often rocky gullies that are baking in the sun. Rocks are often starting to fall just after the sun hits the mixed terrain enough to begin melting the snow. Cornices are still HUGE and I was watching 5m+ cornices dripping water over the past few days on NE aspects around noon. Not a promising sight. Be very suspicious of any snow along ridges when you aren't absolutely certain it isn't corniced. Climbing any where under them is bad idea, especially in the heat and that old school idea of tunnelling through them?? Forget it!
What's good.
The big snow and ice faces with a good freeze are as good as they get. Just be certain of the depth of the freeze and consider your timing carefully before you commit. Alpine rock routes that face south or are under 2800m are mostly darn good.
What's bad.
Big moderate angle mixed routes like Mt. Hungabee, Wishbone Arete, and Mt. Alberta are still plastered and the rockfall will be horrendous whenever the heat gets turned on. Gully climbs like the Grand Central, A Strain etc may well still have horrendous cornices above them and the rockfall would be spectacular from a safe distance. Big snow ridges like Mt. Victoria, the Emperor Ridge, North Howser N Ridge are all climbable but expect some exciting knife edges, cornices and generally slow travel times. Still a surprising amount of snow on routes like the Tarrant buttress and I imagine that high elevation rock routes on features like the Howsers, Adamants, Sir Donald will still have snow where you really don't want it.
LOTS of good climbing to be had right now in the Rockies and Columbias. The days are long and the summer will be short so come up with a good plan and get after it!!!
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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