On August 2nd Crosby Johnston and I climbed the Greenwood/Locke on the North Face of Mt. Temple. The route was in fine condition, which made for a quick ascent (9.5 hrs)
In the parking at 4am the temp was 3 C. The snow in the gully on the right hand side of the 'Dolphin' was firm and offered fast travel. We encountered a small patch of ice on the first traverse before the second icefield. The first 2 pitches of technical climbing (climbed in one 55m pitch) were covered in a thick layer of verglas, which made for fantastic mixed climbing. The traverse left to the base of the rock buttress was covered in snow and ice. Once on the rock buttress we climbed 6 pitches to the top (with a little simul-climbing). The rock was mostly dry and only had minor sections of snow and ice (except for the last pitch, were we donned our crampons).
Of note: a significant rock fall event occurred above the first 2 pitches of technical climbing (just minutes after Crosby had left the belay). Also, there are many large cornices and snow mushrooms hanging on.
To view a short video of the ascent click on the link here.
Images attached:
1. 'right hand' gully
2. Traverse above first 2 pitches of climbing
3. Upper buttress below crux pitch
Joshua Lavigne
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
alpinesummits.blogspot.com