[MCR] O'Hara-Lefroy and Glacier August 3rd,2011

Climbed Lefroy yesterday, august 2nd via west face from the lodge. Excellent overnight freeze all the way up Abbot gully and Lefroy. Awesome ladder of steps up the face was a big help. I have climbed that lump maybe 20-40 times and it was close to the best conditions I have ever seen except for the summit ridge. Steps in place were a bit close to the HUGE cornices overhanging Paradise valley so we went to the west peak and huddled close on that tiny snow cone.
 
Traversed Glacier pk today-1/2 way up the Ringrose couloir and then east on the quarzite ledges and up the rib to the right side of the "Glacier". Descended the slopes below the Lefroy/Glacier pk col with nice plunge stepping to the base at 11:30. HUGE cornices on the Glacier pk ridge. Almost no avalanche activity except on the big SE faces of Ringrose, Hungabee etc in the late morning sun.
Another rock hard overnight freeze-my calves are killing me.
 
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@xxxxxxxxx
 
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