Perfect conditions on Aberdeen yesterday.
The snow tongue is bare ice and seems easier than usual, the snow at its base coming up higher and the tongue itself seems to bulge out more making the angle less steep than usual at the bottom. There are embedded rocks in the tongue waiting to melt out. Rain effect and a good sprinkling of graupel were evident on the mountain to the summit.
The overnight freeze was weak and above the ice tongue a supportive and sometimes breakable crust overlies moist snow beneath making for good step kicking. Firmer as one gets higher. There is a good bridge over the bergschrund middle left and the upper serac seems to have receded a good amount on its left side near the ascent line. In its center however it is quite active thankfully away from the ascent line. Above the schrund, the exit to the col, though of moderate angle, is very firm ice glazed neve which while offering very positive crampon and tool placements does not allow for step kicking or ice screws. It would only be protectable with pickets/flukes. Some small gear or pins may be useful in the adjacent rock.
Aberdeen is an excellent outing right now.
I also had a good look at South and North Victoria, Unnamed and they looked very snowy for August. Mt. Temple looks to have had some new snow overnight on the summit.
Sent on behalf of:
Eric Dumerac - Mountain Guide - IFMGA/ACMG
Mountain Skills Academy
msacourses.com
Peter Tucker
Executive Director
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