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Greetings,
I was in the Bugaboos with 4 course participants and fellow guide Ben Firth from August 14-19th.
We
found excellent lower elevation and challenging higher elevation
conditions in the Bugaboos this week. With the large previous
winters snowpack, a very wet spring/early summer, unseasonably cooler
temperatures and recent new higher elevation snow/graupel/freezing rain. This
often meant wet rock/cracks at lower elevations and much snow, ice,
verglass and iced up cracks on the higher elevation (above 2700 Meters)
alpine rock objectives. This has caused many parties to take longer than
anticipated, not be able to complete routes or even be forced to
bivouac en route.
For example one party on NE ridge of Bugaboo
reported verglass, snow and iced up cracks greatly slowing and
frustrating progress forcing a headlamp descent in driving freezing
rain. Another party on the same route were benighted and spent an
unpleasant forced bivouac during a raging storm on a South summit ledge
to discover a cornice overhead in the morning which had built overnight.
Our team found that the shortcut ledges of normal routes such
as on Marmolata and Pigeon spires were not practicable, now being snow
covered and steep, often with verglass leading to them. We were forced instead
to undertake much more direct ridge lines requiring climbing ridge steps
usually circumnavigated that were quite a bit more difficult, snowed
up and icy than usual, requiring extra time and care to complete.
TRAVEL WARNING!
Besides several large crevasses, there exists a grave hazard on the
oft-used Pigeon Fork Bugaboo Glacier approach/descent of Pigeon Spire.
The hazard is in the form of a giant hidden lid as part of the
scoop/trowel feature that exists at the base of the cliffs between the
Pigeon Spire and the snow arete which leads to the West
ridge route start. Some parties have traveled atop of this feature
without knowing the hazard and there is a track right over it. The lid
covers a large and deep crevasse chamber below. Parties are recommended
to use the glacier closest to Pigeon Feathers - Maramolata instead which
offers a well bridged and speedy approach/descent. See PDF picture attached.
Early in the week we noticed a major rockfall event from the North slopes of Anniversary peak. We also saw a large rock melt out and roll off of steep exposed ice (dry) glaciated terrain.
There
were several good early morning freezes during the week requiring us to
use crampons on any angled snow terrain which by 11 a.m or so softened
to excellent boot travel. All the cols observed (Bugaboo - Snowpatch,
Snowpatch - Pigeon, Marmolata - Pigeon Feathers remain in excellent
condition. Lower elevation South, West faces and ridges of spires such
as Brenta, Crescent and Eastpost are in excellent condition. Overall
excellent crevasse bridges in glaciated terrain. We did notice some
sagging bridges in the larger crevasses and bergschrunds of the upper
glaciers. Ankle biter narrower crevasses above firn line are just
beginning to appear. The lower Son of Snowpatch - Bugaboo glacier is
still a wet glacier with snow on it but bare ice is quickly showing
every day (large embedded rocks there).
As we left more seasonal temperatures were pervading
and will likely greatly improve higher elevation rock route conditions.
Expect higher rockfall, weakening crevasse bridges and cornice failure
potential with this new trend. The trail has been improved yet again
shaving off 15 - 20 minutes.
Despite the more challenging
conditions we encountered, we were able to summit several spires, meet
all of our objectives and have an excellent week.
Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide - IFMGA/ACMG, CAA II ,CSIA II
Mountain Skills Academy
www.msacourses.com
✆Canada: Canmore 011- 403-609-1564
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