Up North Victoria again today with three guests.
Conditions are still excellent. Most of the snow from the Sept 1st
storm that was still there last week has melted away or consolidated
except on high shaded north facing slopes.
The schrund is still easily passed on a good bridge. Black band had
lots of dry rock.
Despite warm temperatures overnight there was very little foot
penetration today on cold facetted crusts in the am and wet surface
with 30cm foot penetration and minimal slow surface sloughing in the
pm on solar aspects.
I did some improvement on the black band rappels: (1) a very good
threaded block climber's right of the seeps/cornice at the beige rock
interface ledge (30m); (2) a 4-piton anchor (pitons were just OK, not
bomber) (30m). From the bottom of this rappel you're well into 3rd
class rubble.
Tom
--
Tom Wolfe, Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Trip photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/sawback/2011SummerNVictoria2
www.banffmountainguides.com
NVicMCR2011.jpg
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NVicMCR2011_2.jpg
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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