I guided Mt Robson via the Kain Route Sept 10-12,
with guests Clint Evangelista and Joe Delamont.
Despite the recent hot, clear weather, there is still a lot of
snow on the mountain. After arriving by helicopter on the Dome on
Sept 10, we witnessed numerous wet snow avalanches down the Kain
Face, and several large cornice failures from the ridge on either
side of the face. Daytime heating was our primary concern,
especially descending the Kain Face in the morning sun. We
therefore decided to climb the route at
night, taking advantage of the full moon.
We started climbing at 5:30 pm on September 11th, with the face
out of the sun and the cornices shaded by thick cloud cover that
had developed during the day.
The bergschrund is easily crossed on the
left side of the face, at a spot that is unfortunately threatened
by a cornice.The face itself had a firm
crust overlying wet snow. There was no ice; all anchors were in
snow. The horizontal ridge at the top of the face was much easier
than in past years, but caution must be exercised due to the huge
cornices. There was a well-trodden path that was often too close
to the crest of the ridge. There is now another trail further away
from the cornice that is a better choice, especially in warm
temps.
The upper ridge was easy travel in bucket steps up snow. We
reached the summit under clear skies and a full moon at 11:30 pm.
The moonlight was
so bright that headlamps were not necessary. On our way down the
mountain, we were treated to a display of northern lights, and we
arrived in camp at 5:00 am.
All said, conditions on the Kain Route are very good right now,
especially if cold temperatures are encountered.
Grant Meekins
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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Mt Robson, Kain Route.jpg
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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