[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columb

Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 29, 2011
Date: 29 Sep 2011 21:54:28 -0000

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 29, 2011

Current Conditions
A series of storms this week have brought new snow to all of the higher peaks in the Rockies and Columbias. Snowfall accumulations of over 15cm have been observed at and above treeline with significant drifting and wind slab development. The peaks in Roger?s Pass and along the Rockies main ranges are plastered white with only a little melting today observed on southerly aspects. Temperatures have been cold with a hard frost to valley bottoms this morning making for cold rock climbing conditions until things warm up.

Forecast
A short lived ridge of high pressure will give sunny and warm conditions through until Saturday when another strong front will come onshore. Moderate to heavy precipitation in the form of rain and snow is expected for Sunday.

Hazards and Suggestions
Alpine climbing might still possible on the right ridge route, but the new snowfall will make for tricky conditions. New wind slabs have formed over previous bare ice and there will be avalanche danger on any slope that is not wind scoured. Fresh cornices have formed and there will be some rockfall danger as well with melting of the new snow on sun exposed slopes. Glacier travel will require cautious evaluation and roped travel as many crevasses will now be hidden and thinly bridged. Any alpine routes with rock climbing will likely be out of condition and at upper elevations there will be deep foot penetration.
This significantly lowers the choices to the point where it is probably better to do a shorter lower elevation south facing rock route and enjoy the sun on Friday or Saturday. Sunday looks like a good day for the gym or to curl up in front of the fire with some route descriptions.

Brad White
Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.