As a Reply to Mike Koppang's request for information on the "Smart" belay
device.
I have been using the Mammut Smart recreationally for almost a year now and
actually quite like it. While it won't replace the GRIGRI I think it makes a
great alternative, and worth trying. Just like the GRIGRI it had a learning
curve to be able to feed slack efficiently and lower smoothly but I learned
quickly how to make it work well. A special note that I would like to emphasize
from the instruction manual is that one is never to lift up on the 'lever' but
to pull it forward (away from your body), both while lowering and feeding
slack. Lifting the lever up effectively creates a hair trigger, it goes from
locked off to open in a few degrees where pulling it outwards gives very fine
control of a lower. Feeding slack is just as easy, pull it away with brake hand
and pull slack with free hand. Like a hybrid between a Tuber and the GRIGRI the
brake hand stays on the lever; however like a Tuber, the hand position on the
lever is the same for resting and giving slack. (where as w
ith the GRIGRI a second hand position is needed to feed slack quickly, in
contrast to the brake position) I have both the GriGri and the Smart, and
prefer the smart for toprope and sport climbing. Hope that helps.
Colin Hoglund
TRCI/CGI1
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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