[MCR] Ice Climbing - Evan Thomas, Haffner, Grotto, King Creek

Hello,

Spent 4 days last week out Ice guiding with Yamnuska's Mountain Skills Semester.

The High danger rating in the Avalanche bulletin kept us away from avalanche terrain pretty much all week. 

We went back a few times with different groups to the routes at Evan Thomas Creek. Snowline and Moonlight were in great shape, with mostly soft plastic ice the whole way (on both) with good protection. A few shorter screws are useful on the starts of both lines. Chantilly was good to go too, but sounded like it was hosing in places.

In Grotto Canyon, His and Hers are both climbable but maybe a little tougher than usual. Grotto falls is fat and plastic and sounded super busy over Sat. and Sun.

Spent some time at Haffner and King Creek as well. Haffner has room for about 5 pure ice lines at the main area and the most of the mixed routes are good to go. Busiest I've ever seen in there this weekend, and a great crew all happy to share ropes and be social - good fun. Same went for King Creek, lot's of ice there and good to go.

Was also up the Icefields Parkway yesterday for an AST course at Bow Summit. Snowing about 2cm's/hr when we left at about 3 pm. Locally  SW moderate/strong winds while we were there. Didn't go anywhere near avalanche terrain all day. Roads were plowed one way (northbound lane) as we came home but still a fair bit of snow on the other side. Passable but good tires and clearance would be a good thing if your heading up there.

Have fun out there!

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Asst. Ski Guide

mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

www.yamnuska.com

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