[MCR] Rockies, Bourgeau Left Hand

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Bourgeau Left Hand
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 06:45:23 -0700
I guided and ascent of Bourgeau Left Hand yesterday, Jan 11th. The approach 
trails starts at the back of the shipping containers and is good through the 
trees. Above the evergreens the trail was lost to wind blown snow and we 
slogged through a couple hundred meters of tedious post holing until we gained 
the avalanche debris in the far, up-valley, side of the runout zone. Snow 
shoes, or skis, would have accelerated the approach. Another tactic would have 
been to stay in the timber close to Healy Creek until getting into the above 
mentioned part of the runout zone as I've heard that the avalanche that ran 
there (over the holidays, I think) ran all the way to the creek. We happily 
walked on top of the debris.

A winter morning around -20 C, the ice on the first pitch was brittle and the 
climbing slow in big, big boots (Spantiks) and thick gloves. The ice is  still 
well attached to the rock there, no gonging. Amazing to step into spring when 
the sun came around. Some moist snow trickling off of the cliffs with the sun 
and the surface snow in the half way ledge/bowl/wee-solar-oven got snowballish 
and moist with direct sun, but then froze to drywall quickly when the sun went 
away.

The rest of the route is in fine shape with the final pitch formed narrowly 
compared to past decades.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

ps, I forgot my camera, pictures below courtesy of my rope-mates, Chris and 
Matt.
pps, Thanks to the other party who showed up behind us for waiting until we 
were on the halfway ledge to start. Far safer for everyone and a good play.

JPEG image

first pitch

JPEG image

last pitch
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