I guided and ascent of Bourgeau Left Hand yesterday, Jan 11th. The approach
trails starts at the back of the shipping containers and is good through the
trees. Above the evergreens the trail was lost to wind blown snow and we
slogged through a couple hundred meters of tedious post holing until we gained
the avalanche debris in the far, up-valley, side of the runout zone. Snow
shoes, or skis, would have accelerated the approach. Another tactic would have
been to stay in the timber close to Healy Creek until getting into the above
mentioned part of the runout zone as I've heard that the avalanche that ran
there (over the holidays, I think) ran all the way to the creek. We happily
walked on top of the debris.
A winter morning around -20 C, the ice on the first pitch was brittle and the
climbing slow in big, big boots (Spantiks) and thick gloves. The ice is still
well attached to the rock there, no gonging. Amazing to step into spring when
the sun came around. Some moist snow trickling off of the cliffs with the sun
and the surface snow in the half way ledge/bowl/wee-solar-oven got snowballish
and moist with direct sun, but then froze to drywall quickly when the sun went
away.
The rest of the route is in fine shape with the final pitch formed narrowly
compared to past decades.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
ps, I forgot my camera, pictures below courtesy of my rope-mates, Chris and
Matt.
pps, Thanks to the other party who showed up behind us for waiting until we
were on the halfway ledge to start. Far safer for everyone and a good play.
first pitch
last pitch _______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|