| I guided at Johnston Canyon today (7 March) and the climbs are still in excellent condition overall. The main (right hand) routes are in good steep shape and the ice on the upper slope has 'healed up' since a few weeks back resulting in some decent ice for screws at the top again. All the recent snow makes managing the belay ledge easier now and we spent some time today digging a platform out. Be aware that the access trail up the right side has some hidden moats where the new snow is barely bridging over holes on top of the steep, wet, rock slab. Punching through in the wrong spot could leave you soaked or worse.
The two pillars that have formed to the left are in better than usual shape with quality climbing and protection. Both are well attached (for now) and saw plenty of traffic today. Temps today peaked at 3C at the base, but felt more like 15C in the Spring sun up high. When we get cold clear nights in the coming days, it is definitely worth remembering at this time of year that the sun has plenty of punch, and the ice at the canyon rim is getting far more solar warming far sooner in the day than you might be aware of down low. We had some significant dagger fall today to remind us of that and did some cleaning of the smaller hangfire we could reach.
Grotto Falls was in fat snowy shape yesterday as well. Enough new ice has formed (and was still forming) that all of the old V-threads on top are getting deeply buried, so we left a burly new anchor on one of the trees on climber's left. His and Hers aren't faring too well, with His barely there most of the way and Hers thin but protectable. The creek is seeing enough sun now that things were getting pretty sloppy on the hike out. Start early to avoid soaked feet.
Carl Johnston RG/AAG
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