I guided an ascent of Tokumm Pole yesterday, March 9th. We had thought that we
would pull our ropes after rappelling in and lead out, but I was happy to top
rope. The first 8 meters of the route demands some acrobatic climbing over
several roofs that would be very difficult to protect. Basically the route is
lacking feet from having been climbed a bunch. The right side of the route was
raining with water yesterday and will be growing and may present a more normal
climb when dry.
Lots of cornices and large snow dollops overhang the canyon so be mindful of
where you stand. One smacked down downstream from us yesterday. The high
ice/gravel/dirty snow line of a flood in the canyon is over head level, think
about how you can get out of there quick if the water level starts to rise.
Two parties climbed the WI 3/4 exit route 15 meters upstream from the Tokumm
Pole.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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