[MCR] Rockies, Tokumm Pole

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Tokumm Pole
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 06:56:23 -0700
I guided an ascent of Tokumm Pole yesterday, March 9th. We had thought that we 
would pull our ropes after rappelling in and lead out, but I was happy to top 
rope. The first 8 meters of the route demands some acrobatic climbing over 
several roofs that would be very difficult to protect. Basically the route is 
lacking feet from having been climbed a bunch. The right side of the route was 
raining with water yesterday and will be growing and may present a more normal 
climb when dry.

Lots of cornices and large snow dollops overhang the canyon so be mindful of 
where you stand. One smacked down downstream from us yesterday. The high 
ice/gravel/dirty snow line of a flood in the canyon is over head level, think 
about how you can get out of there quick if the water level starts to rise.

Two parties climbed the WI 3/4 exit route 15 meters upstream from the Tokumm 
Pole.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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