[MCR] Mt. Athabasca

I guided an ascent of Athabasca via the AA Col yesterday, July 6th.

 

I found conditions on the route to be excellent. With a good over night freeze and an early start, we were able to get off the mountain before the temperatures really started heating up.

We kicked steps up the col on a very supportive 2 inch melt-freeze crust, and the bergschrund was easily crossed on frozen avalanche debris.

Crampons were necessary and we wore them from the toe of the glacier, to the summit and back.

 

Temperatures were –3c at the climbers parking lot at 0245, and a light to moderate wind from the west kept things cool until we reached the AA basin on our descent at 1115.

 

We did not witness any new avalanche activity, but a size 2 wet snow avalanche came down in the left-hand practice gully on the east face of Andromeda sometime in the last 48 hrs. This was initially triggered by cornice failure and entrained snow from the gully down to ice. See attached photos

 

We did not see any other parties on the mountain yesterday.

 

 

Kristopher Irwin
ACMG – Apprentice Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

 

 

Mt. Athabasca

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