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Climbed Mt. Joffre today (July 27) via the North Face and descended the NE Ridge.
Conditions on the mountain itself are excellent and should remain so for some time provided a good freeze is encountered. The North Face is still well covered in snow with just a couple of small patchs of ice showing. The bergschrund is easily crossed towards the right side of the face and good step kicking was encountered throughout. The NE Ridge is also in good shape except for the normally gritty gully, which is in typical condition. A fixed piece of gear (old ring piton) near the top of the gully was easily moved by hand and should be considered highly suspect.
Creeks and lakes in the region are still very high with lots of seasonal snow still remaining. A few of the campsites at Aster Lake are still covered in snow. A trip around the east side of Hidden Lake is currently necesarry due to very high water, and you should allow 1 to 1.5 hours of extra time for this bushwacking adventure.
We replaced the old leaky summit register with a new one.
Have fun!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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