Just finished a great week in the Bugaboos with Yamnuska's Intro to Alpine Rock
Skills course. The weather was excellent, with good overnight freezes and a few
late evening showers, but none of the intense thunderstorms that some folks
experienced in Rogers Pass and Canmore during our trip. The rock was dry on the
spires, with all of the classic routes getting ascents daily. The Bugaboo
Snowpatch col is in great shape. No exposed ice and a line of bucket steps
leading to the top from heavy use. The bergschrund at the base is only showing
signs of opening at the far climber's righthand side, and two smaller ones are
open on the climbers left side at 3/4 height. These will probably force the
track further to the right as the summer continues. This will expose people
more to rockfall from the Kain Route of Bugaboo, so being there before anyone
is climbing above you, and the sun hits the slope will become even more
important. We chose to use crampons ascending the col due to firm snow, but
others were making it up without them.
While climbing Lion's Way in the Crescent area we found a very loose spike of
rock on the second pitch. It has been there for years, but now seems like a
gentle pull of the hand will send it flying, to the detriment of those below.
With many people choosing to cue up behind others on this route take care not
to grab it, as it is right in the line of ascent! On Pigeon Spire you can now
climb to the summit without stepping on snow. On one day we used the
Pigeon-Snowpatch col rappel route to gain the Pigeon Fork Bugaboo glacier. This
is a great descent route when the BS col becomes hazardous due to warm
temperatures, rockfall and/or crowds. It is well described in the
Piche/Atkinson guidebook.
Lots of folks out enjoying the Bugaboos, starting late on big, serious routes,
getting caught high on the mountain during the evening rainstorms just before
dark, running around unroped on glaciers in their running shoes and not paying
too much mind to the fact that they are not at a roadside crag. Though you may
see a lot of interesting tactics up there, stick to your guns and do what you
think is right! Get up super early and play safe!
Jason Billing - Alpine Guide/Apprentice Ski Guide
Steve Blagbrough - Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
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