[MCR] Sky Ladder, Mt. Andromeda, Banff Park.

On Thursday August 9th I guided two guests on Mt. Anderomeda's Skyladder route. The route is definitely a long  ice climb right now and a heck of a calf burner. The Schrund is not easily passed.  Near the right hand side, I had to dig out a bit of a ramp in order to climb through the overhanging schrund wall. I was able to protect the insecure snow climbing with an ice screw in good ice. Glad I had several pairs of gloves as this got them totally soaked. After this,  several pitches of great ice followed. Near the top of the main ice shield, below a prominent pinnacle. We took a right hand turn off the glacier, rounding and gaining the shoulder where we ascended a little chimney of quite good rock. This led us to talus/scree slopes which gain the summit and bypassed several more pitches of low angled ice, thus gaining us time as we were able to move together here. We followed the summit ridge to the top in mostly firm snow with limited post holing. Several cornices are still overhanging here. On the way to the summit is a strange sagging crevasse bridge, I looked at crossing underneath this feature but found hidden crevasses. We passed it by staying on the ridge proper. 

From the summit we went down to the AA col. A good landmark when following the narrow little buttress that leads to the AA col raps is a large square free standing stone with a narrow gap on its left. Take this gap and it will lead you to the first anchor. Cairns can also be seen while looking down from the narrow rocky ridge. We did one rappel (bypassing others)  and down climbed to the col.  From the col there is a three pin anchor and then we made several v-thread raps eventually gaining the climbers left hand side of the AA, where with two rap stations on the rock will get you past the big overhanging schrund - very exciting rappel! 

We did not get a very good freeze overnight and had the occasional rock come down, but mainly things were quiet and the ice is not strewn with many imbedded rocks that could melt out at this time, though they have the potential to come from the several rock walls along the route - be cautious particularly of any gully features above you while on route - hone is able to position stations underneath buttress features rather than gully features. The anchors to the AA and over the Schrund are as manky as ever. 

I would put the condition of the Skyladder as definitely more difficult right now than when one can kick steps up snow in the early season, as well add a more difficult schrund crossing, however the quality of that ice is excellent - a fantastic outing. The Selected Alpine climbs calls this route a II undertaking, I would say right now it is in III condition and a very early start is required for several reasons - rock fall, better firmer snow, lengthy day. 

Walking down the glacier from the AA back to the snowcoach road was in slushy snow with very weak crevasse bridges. Several holes are apparent where someone had found a crevasse - caution required here.

Happy trails, 

Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide

Mountain Skills Academy Owner/Operator
 

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