Just got back from a lap up Wedge Mountain. Climbed the superb NE Arete route. Travel on the Wedgemount glacier was easy on firm snow despite balmy temps (+3C at 3:30 am yesterday). Crevasses are still well bridged low on the glacier. The route ticked all the boxes: firm snow, Olympian position and good ankle deep steps in situ. We descended the West ridge/SW slopes which is only recommended if you love choss, bonus kilometers and unsolicited vertical gain. Best to regress via the NE arete.
Of note; all the other north face routes including the Flavelle route showed signs of recent rockfall and were sporting large 'schrunds that would best be described as grotesque.
The West Couloir lacked the offending 'schrund of the aforementioned routes but was also freshly peppered with stonefall.
Cheers
Paul McSorley
Squamish BC |
NEArete.jpg
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Wedge.jpg
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