[MCR] MCR, Northern Selkirk Mountains

Subject: [MCR] MCR, Northern Selkirk Mountains
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 13:35:05 -0700
Hello 

Have spent the summer at the Mt.Moloch Chalet, guiding alpine climbing guests 
at the many incredible granite routes and to the scenic peaks. So far it was 
one of the most interesting summers I ever have experienced in this amazing 
granite area, where all approaches are on glacial terrain. With the large 
snowpack from this past winter, which is at most glaciers over 2500 metres 
elevation still well over 6 metres deep, and the classic summer heat the 
glaciers are moving at a faster "speed" than I have observed in previous 
summers. Looking at the speed the crevasses split, I estimated approximately 1 
metre of glacial movement during the time-span of 3 days at elevation 2500 
metres. This fast moving of the glaciers has been visible for weeks, as daily 
glacial avalanches have been created by collapsing ice towers. Also the 
bergschrunds have indicated fast movement of the glaciers, as they quickly 
became extremely wide and deep, the main glaciers separated with a good rate of 
flow 
 from the actual mountain ice-sheet. This week I have observed several times 
that strong crevasse snow-bridges of well over 6 metres in thickness completely 
collapsed. As the glaciers maintain fast flowing speed the overlaying snowpack 
started to build up tension on the crevasse snow-bridges, eventually this 
tension reached the point of a complete collapse of the entire bridge. I 
changed my spacing in between each rope member while travelling on glaciers, 
using now a larger distance in between each person. Also I definitely avoid 
crossing crevasse snow-bridges if possible ....... just to avoid a complete 
collapse of a large snow-bridge. 

Well, all the great snow, making approaches to the various amazing granite 
rock-climbs easy, created a new problem. Potential crevasse falls can be much 
more serious.

Enjoy the rest of the summer and be safe.

Ruedi Beglinger
Selkirk Mountain Experience
I.F.M.G.A / A.C.M.G. Mountain Guide
www.selkirkexperience.com
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