Hello
Have spent the summer at the Mt.Moloch Chalet, guiding alpine climbing guests
at the many incredible granite routes and to the scenic peaks. So far it was
one of the most interesting summers I ever have experienced in this amazing
granite area, where all approaches are on glacial terrain. With the large
snowpack from this past winter, which is at most glaciers over 2500 metres
elevation still well over 6 metres deep, and the classic summer heat the
glaciers are moving at a faster "speed" than I have observed in previous
summers. Looking at the speed the crevasses split, I estimated approximately 1
metre of glacial movement during the time-span of 3 days at elevation 2500
metres. This fast moving of the glaciers has been visible for weeks, as daily
glacial avalanches have been created by collapsing ice towers. Also the
bergschrunds have indicated fast movement of the glaciers, as they quickly
became extremely wide and deep, the main glaciers separated with a good rate of
flow
from the actual mountain ice-sheet. This week I have observed several times
that strong crevasse snow-bridges of well over 6 metres in thickness completely
collapsed. As the glaciers maintain fast flowing speed the overlaying snowpack
started to build up tension on the crevasse snow-bridges, eventually this
tension reached the point of a complete collapse of the entire bridge. I
changed my spacing in between each rope member while travelling on glaciers,
using now a larger distance in between each person. Also I definitely avoid
crossing crevasse snow-bridges if possible ....... just to avoid a complete
collapse of a large snow-bridge.
Well, all the great snow, making approaches to the various amazing granite
rock-climbs easy, created a new problem. Potential crevasse falls can be much
more serious.
Enjoy the rest of the summer and be safe.
Ruedi Beglinger
Selkirk Mountain Experience
I.F.M.G.A / A.C.M.G. Mountain Guide
www.selkirkexperience.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
|