ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 16, 2012
It is the middle of August and the mountains finally look like summer. After a long period of high water, rivers are finally dropping down to more normal levels. Generally, conditions in the alpine are as good as they get. Most of the bigger classic lines are getting climbed regularly and reports are of good conditions. The bigger ice faces are getting quite icy and in some cases are drying to the point of getting dark runnels with imbedded rocks. It is important to be well away from these places once temperatures rise and/or the sun gets on them. The good news as we approach the latter part of August is that we are starting to see some much cooler overnight overnight temperatures with valley bottom lows approaching the freezing mark.
Of note is that there have been a number of significant icefall events. The largest of course is with the Ghost glacier calving off the North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell. This resulted in a huge debris event and tsunami that created incredible damage in the parking lot and adjoining facilities. In the past 48 hours, two other, albeit much smaller, icefall events occurred on Aberdeen and Lefroy. Between these events and other major landslide events, there is a lot of speculation on climate change, global warming, and the effects of the above average precipitation in June. Regardless of the cause, it is worth giving very careful consideration to any routes threatened by seracs.
Reports from guides working in the Selkirks, Bugaboos and the Rockies are that most routes are in shape. With another week of good weather forecasted, this is the time to go after your alpine tick list before the first snows of early fall.
Marc Ledwidge
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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