I spent Sept 15-17th in the Bugaboos with a guest.
The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in reasonable condition with hard snow to
just above the bergshrunds. Both bergshrunds are very open with a solid
bridge to travel between them. The upper col has melted down to ice and
has just enough hard snow to hold in the loose rock. The climbers right
side has completely melted out and this has some rockfall hazard with
rocks perched on hard, steep frozen scree. Most parties were using the
chain anchors on climbers left to descend from the upper section of the
col.
The Kain route on Bugaboo is in excellent shape. There was no need for
crampons and ice axe above the col. Pigeon Spire was still holding snow
and ice on the N side on the final summit block.
The ACC Kain hut is open for another week.
Enjoy the great weather!
Kirsten
Kirsten Knechtel
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Golden, BC
www.kirstenknechtel.com
--
>_______________________________________________
>These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
>them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
>omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
>and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
>Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased
>safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in
>planning trips or making decisions in the field.
>See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
>See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name
>from this list.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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