[MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2012 17:16:08 -0700
I guided an ascent of Louise Falls today, Dec 7th. The route is about as hard 
as it gets right now and is sporting some death daggers. We found a sheltered 
ground level belay in an alcove in the middle of the first wall. The first snow 
ledge is a nervous place to be right now and I stretched our 60 metre rope to 
gain a rappel tree belay on the left via some mixed frozen turf climbing. Our 
belay was safe and out of the fall zone of the daggers, but it was spicy 
regaining the ice (probably easier to step down there and across rather than up 
and across). The pillar is in WI 5 shape right now and climbs well with a 
chimney rest against a curtain at the top. Be delicate pulling onto the upper 
snow ledge as there are horizontal fractures and curtains left and right that 
could shear. Above the upper snow ledge was Louise as usual. We walked off.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


image/jpg


Louise Falls Dec 7th. Our first belay was under the exposed rock in the middle 
of the first wall.

image/jpg


Death daggers.




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from 
this list.