Hey there,
Another good day out there, traded the skis for ice tools.
Up Guinness Gully and Guinness Stout today. Guinness Gully is in it's usual well traveled condition. Lot's of good hooks, and protects well. The gore-tex was a handy thing to have in places as it's got a few wet-spots on each of the three pitches.
Guinness Stout was good fun, but not as straight forward as the ice below. The 1st pitch of stout is thin lower down, and the lower angle ice protects well with short screws. The upper half of the pitch is a mix of lenses, shells and rotten ice and took some digging to find decent protection.
The first third of our line on the 2nd pitch was a featureless lens that didn't protect well.
Above that about 10m of wet ice made for better swings and protection. The top out had roughly 40cm's of facets overtop of a mix of rotten ice and mud that hadn't frozen yet, made for some fun/spicy exit moves.
Hope you all had a good weekend out there!
Mike Trehearne
Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide