Climbed Guiness Gully yesterday. The route is in excellent condition,
good ice, good screws, plenty of hooks and room for other lines if you
don't like hooks.
There are two trails leading up to the climb and one leading down from
the descent gully. The one leading down is the first you encounter as
you walk back towards Field from the parking lot (~25m from the
parking lot). The next one is a nice but somewhat bushwhacky trail up
through the woods (~75m). The third one, which is well marked with
flagging tape, leads directly into the runout of the gully but is
slippery; crampons recommended (~125m).
A good trail to the descent gully is pounded in -- about 50m above the
top pitch it traverses (climber's right) into the woods and down into
the gully, which is slippery and requires crampons and careful
downclimbing in spots.
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.ontopmountaineering.com
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