[MCR] Louise Falls & Left Side Weeping Wall - Rockies Ice

Hey There,

Interesting day yesterday... Guided the better part of two routes, but can't really say we topped out either of them! 

Fun times all the same on Louise Falls and the Weeping Wall though.

The first pitch of Louise Falls has ice only on it's climbers left half, leaving the line totally exposed to the hang-fire above... which is gigantic right now. The best option to me seemed to be to make a 70-75m. sprint (we had an 80m rope) up and around the back of the pillar for a belay in the cave to avoid having to stop anywhere below the daggers. 

Pulling into the cave, the main pillar settled twice as I tip-toed around it, and continued to make all sorts of eery noises while I brought up my second. When we'd left the car, at 8:30am the thermometer read -21*C. By 11:30am, it was -7*C back at the truck.

It could have worked out... but based on the rapid temperature change, the number of odd noises the pillar kept making, it's slender form and the hang-fire overhead, it spooked me enough to pull the pin and got out of there.

Not psyched about being chased off, we grabbed some java in the Village and made a b-line for the Weeping Wall. Climbed the Left Side to within a stone's throw of the big anchor tree at the top of the route.

The line is still a bit thin in places but overall has really fun and interesting climbing on it, having to move around a bit to find the thicker stuff. Our first pitch was fat and plastic and took us to a belay just right of the rock outcrop that divides the Snivelling Gully and the Left Hand Route. The second pitch put us above and climbers left of the same piece of rock and than we climbed a pretty much straight shot to the top from there. 

The second and third pitches still have a fair number of big hollow shells, some of which had been punched through already. Seemed wise not to stick screws into them, which meant some bigger run-outs. We rapped the left side hitting the ground just in time to flick the headlamps on. 

All in, the line is pretty good right now, and worth heading up for. Both the Centre and Right side look like their game on as well.

Not my typical day of guiding... but definitely a ton of fun!

Be safe out there. 

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

 

Cloud Nine Guides

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