[MCR] Kemosabe ice climb

Hello,

 

My guest and I climbed ‘Kemosabe’ in the North Ghost yesterday Jan 8th.

 

There was very little snow in this area making for good travel to and from the climb.

The top of the first pitch looked to be almost melted out from the ground, but actually protected and climbed well.  The second pitch was a long and sustained pitch of WI4+ with aerated and lacy ice.  I had to dig for good screw placements.  Don’t go expecting grade 4 ice as the guidebook states.

 

No other notable events.

 

This was my first time on the route and it is now one of may favourite ghost climbs.  Very cool setting and fantastic climbing.

 

It is currently snowing in Banff and 15cms has fallen in town overnight as of 1100am this morning.

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce

First Pitch

 

 

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