My fellow guide, Pat Delaney and I guided at the Junkyards today, Feb 25th. Ice
screws melting out became an issue for the first time this year when I was able
to pull one long screw straight out on our sunniest top rope anchor at the end
of the day.
Yesterday I guided an attempt on Cascade Waterfall as the middle pitch that
suffered and ice collapse one week, or more, ago has been refreezing and
repairing itself. It is climbable on the climber's right hand margin but it is
being undercut by a lot of water. The climbing was complicated and serious for
Cascade. The sun came out below the crux pitch and we ran away from the heat.
There has been little significant avalanche activity on Cascade, one class 1.5
was about all that I could make out. There seems to be a lot of water flowing
behind the ice, probably from all of the snow that is sitting up in the start
zones above the climb melting and not avalanching.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
|