[MCR] Rockies, Junkyards, Cascade Falls

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Junkyards, Cascade Falls
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 17:46:32 -0700
My fellow guide, Pat Delaney and I guided at the Junkyards today, Feb 25th. Ice 
screws melting out became an issue for the first time this year when I was able 
to pull one long screw straight out on our sunniest top rope anchor at the end 
of the day.

Yesterday I guided an attempt on Cascade Waterfall as the middle pitch that 
suffered and ice collapse one week, or more, ago has been refreezing and 
repairing itself. It is climbable on the climber's right hand margin but it is 
being undercut by a lot of water. The climbing was complicated and serious for 
Cascade. The sun came out below the crux pitch and we ran away from the heat. 
There has been little significant avalanche activity on Cascade, one class 1.5 
was about all that I could make out. There seems to be a lot of water flowing 
behind the ice, probably from all of the snow that is sitting up in the start 
zones above the climb melting and not avalanching.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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