Hello all,
Friday I guided a late season ascent of Guinness Gully. I found surprisingly
great spring conditions on this classic. The first 10m of pitch 1 had some
hollowness but beyond provided good opportunities for protection. Pitches 2 and
3 are fat. Of note, crampons are still effective on the approach and the
initial ice is quite thin.
Saturday I went back Field with friends Jesse and Kendra to climb Guinness and
Carlsberg. From the TCH Carlsberg looked sun effected. We were surprised that
after the initial 3m the spring refreeze has completely rebuilt the LH pillar.
The RH pillar looks close to collapse and the approach pitches are not there.
The alternate scramble approach to the right was almost free of snow. Pilsener
fell down in the past week.
Sunday with same friends, changed to ski mode. -5C at 0800 below Mt Patterson.
We were still able to find snow bridges over creek to base of SE couloir. Not a
lot of snow at valley bottom but just enough to keep skis on. Recent storm
snow seems well bonded to sun crusts. 0-15cm soft slab provided reasonable ski
quality. We avoided final 100m because of increased wind effect. Lower fan just
softening at 1230h.
Jesse and I ventured to the Icefields yesterday morning. At present there are
snow ramps through each icefall that allow ascent to the final headwall without
exposure to the Snowdome serac fall on the right. We overnighted in King's
Trench and ascended Mt Columbia this am. -15C at 0500. Chilly but clear
morning. It is still winter on the Icefield. We climbed the S Ridge.
Bergschrund is mostly filled in across the east face. 0-15 cm wind pressed slab
overtop early April sun effect. Crampons and ice axe were useful on ascent of
up to 50 deg crust. Thankfully this crust held a good ski edge during an
engaging icy descent.
0-10 cm ski pen across Icefield made for good travel. Of note, about 1km SW
from top of headwall a team of glaciologists have set up camp for the next two
weeks. They reported 6m snow depth on the ice cap.
Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
|