[MCR] Field to Icefields Parkway

Subject: [MCR] Field to Icefields Parkway
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:05:22 -0600
Hello all,

Friday I guided a late season ascent of Guinness Gully. I found surprisingly 
great spring conditions on this classic. The first 10m of pitch 1 had some 
hollowness but beyond provided good opportunities for protection. Pitches 2 and 
3 are fat. Of note, crampons are still effective on the approach and the 
initial ice is quite thin.

Saturday I went back Field with friends Jesse and Kendra to climb Guinness and 
Carlsberg. From the TCH Carlsberg looked sun effected. We were surprised that 
after the initial 3m the spring refreeze has completely rebuilt the LH pillar. 
The RH pillar looks close to collapse and the approach pitches are not there. 
The alternate scramble approach to the right was almost free of snow. Pilsener 
fell down in the past week. 

Sunday with same friends, changed to ski mode. -5C at 0800 below Mt Patterson. 
We were still able to find snow bridges over creek to base of SE couloir. Not a 
lot of snow at valley bottom but just enough to keep skis on.  Recent storm 
snow seems well bonded to sun crusts. 0-15cm soft slab provided reasonable ski 
quality. We avoided final 100m because of increased wind effect. Lower fan just 
softening at 1230h. 

Jesse and I ventured to the Icefields yesterday morning. At present there are 
snow ramps through each icefall that allow ascent to the final headwall without 
exposure to the Snowdome serac fall on the right. We overnighted in King's 
Trench and ascended Mt Columbia this am. -15C at 0500. Chilly but clear 
morning. It is still winter on the Icefield. We climbed the S Ridge. 
Bergschrund is mostly filled in across the east face. 0-15 cm wind pressed slab 
overtop early April sun effect.  Crampons and ice axe were useful on ascent of 
up to 50 deg crust. Thankfully this crust held a good ski edge during an 
engaging icy descent. 

0-10 cm ski pen across Icefield made for good travel. Of note, about 1km SW 
from top of headwall a team of glaciologists have set up camp for the next two 
weeks. They reported 6m snow depth on the ice cap.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone
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