[MCR] Mt. Andromeda, Skyladder

Climbed Mt. Andromeda over the weekend via the Skyladder route and found excellent conditions in the alpine.  A good freeze (10-15cms thick) made for quick travel on the glaciers and the bergschrund under the route was easily passable on the climbers right hand side.  The face was a mixture of boot top snow for the first few rope lengths turning to alpine ice for the upper half.  We used pickets, ice screws and 6-8 small to medium size wires for anchors.  

Travel to the summit was also in good shape with ankle deep snow that provided good footing on the ridge.  The cornices are large in spots and care is required to stay well away from them.  We descended down the true AA col via 5 or 6 ice anchors and a final snow anchor to get over the bergschrund, which is quite open in spots.  

Overall we found that if you get a good freeze and can move quickly the alpine is in very good shape right now...of course this may change with the next system moving in tonight.

A great day in the mountains.  Have fun!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

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