We climbed Eisenhower Tower yesterday. A cool but windless day with some cloud
and mist that created a mysterious ambience at times. No precip.
There are a few snow patches on the approach that we walked through but en
route we could bypass all snow except for the summit snow field.
The loose bolt at the top of the first pitch on the main tower above the
Dragons Back has finally come out. The remaining bolt seems solid and it may be
backed up by a tiny wired nut up and left of the bolt. The more obvious wire
placement is behind a small block that flexed when I tested it. I used a
thinner crack a bit higher.
Alternatively a 45 m pitch bypasses this anchor altogether. A 30 m rappel
bypasses it on the way down but a very short easy down climb is required to
regain the Dragons Back.
Mark Klassen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Banff-Lake Louise, Canada
_______________________________________________
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