[MCR] Uto Peak, Rogers Pass, July 3, 2013

Climbed the SW Ridge and descended the NW Ridge of Uto Peak in Rogers Pass today with Ali Haeri.  Both ridges are dry and in good shape for climbing.

The trail up from the valley is mostly snow free until about 100m below the Sir Donald bivy site where it becomes mostly snow covered.  The Sir Donald bivy site is still snow covered but the food storage locker and toilet are open, good snow camping is available, and some rocks are exposed for cooking or hanging out.  (The toilet at the Uto-Sir Donald Col is still closed, however the col is snow free.)

The scree slopes leading up toward the Uto-Sir Donald Col are still mostly snow covered with firm snow and an ice axe is recommended.  Lightweight crampons may be useful following a cool night.  The descent from the NW Ridge of Uto into the bivy basin is also mostly snow covered and provides easy travel on steep snow, but an ice axe and possibly crampons are recommended.

The NW ridge of Sir Donald appears to be snow free and in shape for climbing.  Expect a bit of wet rock, and a few spots requiring kicking steps on snow in the upper section of the ridge.  The Bypass descent route looks like it still needs a bit of time to dry out and saw a significant snow & rock avalanche cross it yesterday afternoon, so descending the upper NW ridge will probably be the best choice for a bit longer.

Most other routes in the area look to be in good shape as well.  Enjoy!

Conrad Janzen

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Visitor Safety Technician, Glacier National Park

Ledges leading to the Uto-Sir Donald Col.JPG
Description: JPEG image

NW Ridge of Sir Donald.JPG
Description: JPEG image

SW Ridge of Uto.JPG
Description: JPEG image

Uto NW Ridge descent into the basin.JPG
Description: JPEG image

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from 
this list.