Hey All,
Just back down from a summit of Mount Fay via the West Ridge.
As Aaron's post just mentioned, conditions were excellent. The approach yesterday was in good shape. Log bridges were nearly underwater, but still there and passable at the back of the lake. Still some large snowpatches laying around on the way up to the chain pitch, but easy to avoid where you needed to. Crossing the ledge from the chain pitch, there is still a large patch of snow on the ledge that can be climbed or traversed on dry rock underneath. Good climbing either way.
Glacier travel was comfortable and most crevasses either well bridged or easy to hop across.
Best freeze I've had this summer gave quick travel over to the base of Fay this morning around 5am. The bergschrund was supportive and bridged well enough we just walked right across. The face above that accesses the ridge is currently all snow, and we were able to motor up it, all climbing together. The ridge from there to the summit plateau was all dry and in good shape, and across the plateau to the summit was on hard well frozen snow.
By the time we hit the snow face and descended back down over the bergschrund the snow surface was only just barely softening up. No concerns today about rockfall or wet slides given the quality of the freeze.
Schrunds look more exciting the further you go down toward the Chouinard route.
Apologies for any typos... cold thumbs on the iPhone up here behind the hut!
Have a great week!
Mike Trehearne
AG/ASG
Cloud Nine Guides Inc.
Blog & Photos at:
www.cloudnineguides.com
www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
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