Carl Johnston and I have just returned from a 5 day trip to the Bugaboos. During the 5 days we climbed the Pigeon Feathers, Pigeon Spire (W Ridge), McTech Arête, Loins Way, Bugaboo Spire (Kain Route) and the Hounds Tooth. Coverage and travel on the glaciers was quite good and the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col was in great shape. The upper bergschrund is starting to open up but was easily passed on the climbers right. The last bolted rap station from the col was still buried and without it you end up above the bergschrund without an anchor.
A few notes on the routes:
Pigeon Feathers – Accessing the Marmolada/Pigeon Feathers col required climbing into and out of the bergschrund which was easy but may change quickly. The Pigeon Feathers Traverse was in excellent condition. The Pigeon fork of the Bugaboo glacier had good coverage and was easy travel.
Pigeon Spire – In dry conditions with the exception of 30-50m on North side of the summit block. We did not need crampons or axes.
Bugaboo Spire (Kain Route) – There are still large patches of snow down low on the ridge but they are easily avoided by staying high on the ridge. All the rap stations are in good shape. The NE Ridge was climbed by numerous other parties who reported dry conditions.
Crescent Spire area – Midsummer conditions.
Enjoy your trip if you are heading into the area.
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
via
Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
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