We climbed Mt. Hungabee via the normal route today (Aug 6). Overall, the peak is in good condition. Here is what to expect. - The Opabin Glacier is ice for the first half and snow for the second half. There are hidden crevasses to watch for on the later half.
- The prominent snow face has melted back to the point where the line of ascent is not threatened by avalanches or rockfall generated from melting.
- The traverse back right once paralllel with the top of the big snow face still does have some snow patches. We opted for crampons here, and took them off once the traverse was complete.
- Through the upper "coal band" there was verglas here and there, mostly near visible and audible water sources.
- We enhanced four of the anchors (in locations with steeper sections) with pitons and nuts from the "coal band" back to the top of the traverse on the descent.
Aaron Beardmore Mountain Guide
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