[MCR] The Lyells August 7 to 11

Subject: [MCR] The Lyells August 7 to 11
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 14:19:07 -0600
Just got back from spending 5 days climbing all of the Lyells Peaks except for Lyell 1(Rudolph Peak).   Here are some of my observations:  Christian Peak (Lyell 5) South Ridge is all rock; this week was not a snow climb as the book suggested.  Most of the cornices on  Walter Peak (Lyell 4) have fallen off, only couple small sections are hanging in.   Edward Peak (Lyell 2) West Ridge was a maze of crevasses to the summit, not as straight forward as the book suggests.   They were relatively small but you still need to be cautious.  Those crevasses run horizontally and vertically to the slope.
The bergschrund on  Ernest Peak (Lyell 3) runs right across, but easy to get over.   Every day that I was there, I noticed crevasses opening up more or bridges sagging with the warm temps, as well as the sun cups getting deeper. We didn't observe any rock falls and it was a great week in the mountains.

Marco Delesalle
 Mountain Guide












_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from 
this list.