[MCR] East Ridge of Mt.Temple

Myself and Jesse de Montigny guided ascents of the East Ridge of Mt.Temple yesterday. 

As would be expected the route is bone dry, but with the cool clear night, there was frost on the rocks above 2400m until the sun came around. It is no longer easy to refill water bottles on the traverse to the black towers. To find the new anchors going up the towers, after getting started as per the description in the 11,000'ers book,  generally climb in the middle of the gully and look for the anchors out right where there is protection from falling rocks.

The summit ridge is icy, with a narrow crevasse right on the ridge crest that must be avoided. There are a couple of crevasses that must be crossed along the way. There are still some cornice issues. Steel crampons, a real ice axe, and an extra ice screw will be helpful. 

A great time to be up there with the stable weather.

Jason Billing

ACMG Alpine Guide/Apprentice Ski Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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