[MCR] Mt. Balfour, Wapta Icefields

Spent a few days last week in the RJ Ritchie hut and climbed the North ridge of Mt. Balfour.

The 1904 route is mostly 3rd and 4th class with some easy ice/snow climbing towards the summit and has its fair share of questionable rock.  It was about 9 hours hut to hut and we descended the Southeast ridge until we could get back down to the glacier on the east side (normal ski ascent line).  This required 2 exciting rappels (ice anchors) into and out of a couple of filled in bergschrunds which provided the crux for the climb.  A recommended outing if you've done most of the classic ascents in the area.

As to be expected the glaciers are very dry with most crevasses being quite easy to spot with clear visibility.  The hut was in great shape.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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