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Climbed Peaks 1, 2 and 3 of the Lougheed Traverse yesterday (June 13) in perfect weather.
We started on the NW ridge of Peak 1. There has been a sizeable rockfall event in the vicinity of the normal first pitch, possibly associated with this spring's wet weather. It appears that a small part of the normal first pitch is missing, and getting to the first belay involves some steep climbing on loose and dirty holds for a few metres. We also found very little evidence of rappel anchors on the NW ridge. If you were planning to descend the ridge it would be advisable to bring a bunch of cord or sling in order to build stations.
The traverse of Peaks 2 and 3 is in good condition, but some evidence of the June flooding is found in gully features along the way. We did not climb Peak 4 (Wind Mountain) due to time constraints.
We descended into Spencer Creek from the Peak 3/Peak 4 col and found easy travelling on slab and scree. This descent is described well in Nugara's "More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies".
Enjoy the extended summer!
Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety
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