[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columb

Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 31st, 2013.
Date: 31 Oct 2013 20:22:06 -0000

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 31st, 2013.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mtns issued Oct 31st 2013.


It is definitely between seasons in the mountains right now. Starting somewhere between 1400 and 2000m, there is generally just the right amount of snow on the ground to make climbing tough and skiing tougher.

Ice climbing in a very few locations is about the only thing that currently makes sense and even that statement is fuel for a deeper discussion than this:) Cold high places have some ice that looks climbable but most recent reports and gossip that I have heard mention the words thin and brittle. Stanley valley sounded very dry. Along the Icefields Parkway, low elevation routes like the Weeping Wall, Polar Circus and Curtain Call are dry and only routes like Slipstream seem to be formed. Slipstream itself would possibly have windslabs on the low angle sections and this fall's cornices looming above.

Alpine climbing is still suffering from a dry summer/fall. I think it safe to say that a majority of classic fall alpine ice or mixed routes would have long sections of snow covered scree or rubble where you should be cruising and some desperate drytooling where you would love to be placing screws.

Glacier Park had less than 5 cm of snow on the ground at Avalanche Crest(2200m) yesterday and another 5-10 cm overnight. 1cm on the ground at the Rogers Pass and the highway was in poor shape at 10am PST. Skiing sounds like it would be stupid at least up to treeline. Above that you have not much fall snow covering mostly bare glacial ice and open crevasses.

Have a fine weekend-somewhere.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide



These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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