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Climbed Rogan's Gully earlier today (Nov 29th).
We were off the route just after 10:00am, which seemed prudent with the forecasted warm temperatures. The climb is still very much in early season condition. Stubbies were necesarry on Pitch 1 and on one of the mixed pitches higher up. Pitch 2 has completely melted away and requires a bypass on the climbers right. It is possible to exit the gully at this point and then descend back into the gully approximately 25 metres higher up. This pitch should re-form quickly once we return to cooler temperatures. Much snow covers the middle section of the route (thanks to whoever punched a track in previous to us!). The left hand exit at the top is in good condition, but the right hand exit is not quite formed.
Descent was made by the "summer" descent route, and this is currently in good condition.
Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
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