Guided an ascent of Louise Falls Yesterday 140113.
Winds were hard at work all day blowing snow around. We walked up the trail
that weaves through the stand of trees on the climbers right. It was nearly
entirely drifted in, with snow just below the knees. Considering how the slopes
below the route were well loaded, the walk off must off been a bit touchy
yesterday, we avoided it and rappelled to return to our packs.
We were followed by a party trying to climb the left hand line, as we climbed
the right.
The party of three got stuck by a 70m rope somewhere in the middle of the
second pitch.
Belay locations are key, longer is not necessarily better or faster. Safe
belays, sheltered from overhead hazards should be a leaders top priority after
protecting the line. Protecting the line means, protecting the seconds, that
means use the proper gear to tow up two people (skinny modern single ropes,
with less stretch than half or god forbid twin ropes) and think about the
"what if" someone fell.
Furthermore with a climber attached to a single half rope while seconding the
pillar and a belayer at the top of the route, a fall would be an instant epic,
rope stretch would have the climber slamming against the low angle ice below.
Combined with poor Communication and now a lack of rope to do a rescue, a team
would be kinda hooped if the second was injured, especially if the falling
climber took out the other second on the way. At least there is plenty of cell
reception!
On Louise falls, there is more overhead hazard than on most popular summer
alpine routes that are capped by cornice or serac features. Despite this
climbers still choose to "plow" directly up the middle of the slope below the
route and climb with complete disregard for their safety by belaying in the
most god awful locations, even after kind softly spoken suggestions.
With collapsing pillars approaching climbers or bum sliding families would
likely get a good idea of what it might of felt like to have Rome fall on
someone. The size of the ice pillars would likely smear you and your team right
back down the direct line of miserably steep walking.
Take the line on the right, the walking is better and even if it's not
perfectly safe it might provide enough shelter next time the daggers come down,
It's happened before and it's going to happen again!!!!
Patrick Delaney
Acmg alpine guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Sent from my iPhone
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