[MCR] Rainbow serpent.

Subject: [MCR] Rainbow serpent.
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2014 20:52:58 -0700
To add to Chris Irwin's previous post.

I guided a very fat rainbow serpent today. 

With my two guests, Glen and Anthony, I avoided the low angle apron via a 
nearly walking approach on the left.

>From Chris' thread (10mm rope) it's 55m to the top thread in the flats above 
>the route. 
The climbing was mainly overhanging, leg  heel hooks and all. There was lots of 
cleaning and no sign of travel. 
Below the top (30m) the climbing eases to WI5. It was wet and mostly 
protectable.

On the upper section, there was a considerable amount of new ice since the 
previous ascents.  We found an abalalov up high 20m down from the top covered 
by about 3/4 of a meter of new icicles. 

The route is fatter than any picture I have observed and has much larger 
feature as well. However it was my first time on the route.

>From the top, the shorter fearful symmetry looks much worse than from its 
>base. I believe it to possibly be done for the season. It has 4 significant 
>fractures.

We enjoyed great new bolted anchors all the way down Aquarius.

Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide 
Yamnuska Mountain adventures.
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