Conducted a program at the junkyards today,
Currently, the ice climbing area below grassy lakes known as the
"junkyards"(both lower and upper), has a significantly greater amount of slip
hazard, much greater than the average year. Based on my last 12 years of
regular use (multiple times a month), I find that there is far more ice linking
typical ice climbing sections. Where snow is usually dominant, where one
usually walks on turf, or loose soil covered by crusty and faceted sugar snow,
ice flows are now the current dominant surface.
It is possible for an unropped and unbelayed climber to fall long distances and
accelerate to alarming speeds in many areas. Some of the zones would be deadly!
Also, there are several surface streams running on top of the ice in a few
sections, likely pushed to the top from the recent cold snap.
Thirdly, there is a few good looking pillars, right of the large falls visible
from the parking area. The upper main falls nearly look climbable but are still
heavily undercut, several large ice avalanche have been observed in the past
two days. There is enough big volume to likely reach the area just above the
small pump house shack near the trail.
The track is all ice, with some big debris in places. The whole area
occasionally used for low angle ice practice could easily to be considered
under avalanche hazard. Not worth the risk i think.
I would not attempt to climb the pillars or walk below the pillars in the
obvious path left of the approach trail I described above.
However right of the pillars is a large flow that currently looks quite
reasonable to climb. However, their stability might deteriorate if the
temperatures keep warming up.
Finally, plenty of low angle ice flows hidden by the recent warm sticky storm
snow are waiting for unsuspecting hikers.
Hikers that usually cut steep icy sections of trail because of inappropriate
footwear are currently also at an elevated risk of loosing footing, sliding and
falling over cliffs or impacting trees. It would currently be difficult for
inexperienced people to anticipate or see some icy sections.
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
Alpineguide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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