[MCR] Dream On and Rainbow Serpent ice climbing conditions

Yesterday we climbed Dream On and one of the pitches higher up.  Dream On is still in as well as its neighbouring route.  We ventured up the canyon and the other two pitches are also still in and very fat and offer good value for their grade.  Warm temps and sun are melting things out that way, and the road in to the parking area was quite muddy and rutted.

Today we climbed Rainbow Serpent.  Aquarius is hanging in there and still nice climbing.  The first pitch of Rainbow was still nicely hooked out.  The hooked out section ends and there is a good crack at the top of the pillar.  The second pitch felt very untravelled and newly reformed.  All the previous v-threads at the top of the climb were iced over, so the climb seems to be growing!

Fearful Symmetry…looked fearful, with at least 3 big cracks across it.

Sarah Hueniken

ACMG Alpine Guide

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