[MCR] Lessons of Oka, Murchison falls area

Subject: [MCR] Lessons of Oka, Murchison falls area
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2014 06:13:20 -0600

Guided lessons of Oka yesterday (Saturday the 15th)

We spent most of our day under overcast skies and never received any sun.

Despite recording a low of -6C and a high of 2C the constant winds made things 
feel much cooler. At times, moderate to strong gusts with light snow fall and 
wind transported made us feel like the storm was starting early. However, 
despite the threatening skies and a few brief squalls, the wind blew the area 
clean. The only sign of new snow was snow caught in our up track.  As of 17:00 
yesterday there was no sign of the forecasted storm snow.

Most of the snow surfaces in the area of the "base" of the route are either 
wind affected or sun affected. The point is the snow is either firm or crusty 
enough that rocks and ice currently run a long distance on the top of the snow 
pack. Large amounts of new snow with wind could create some touchy storm slab 
conditions in areas steep enough to produce movement of a slab.

The ice on the route showed little in term of sun affect, the ice is dry and 
well traveled. Overall the climb is in good shape with a few short delicate 
sections. In places, the ice is now thin do to sublimation and aerated do to 
ice axe placements. Rock protection is available in those skinnier sections.

Overhead hazard, there are plenty of big hanging ice features found on the 
mostly rotten and sun affected Virtual Reality. The overhead hazard looked 
quite significant and would be of serious concern on a warm sunny day. Parties 
would be at risk anywhere under fall line to these features, especially on the 
traverse from Murchison Falls to Lessons of Oka.

We reached the base of Lessons via a new 4 pitch direct variation that avoids 
the overhead hazard currently generated by Virtual Reality. The route climbs a 
series of left facing corner systems (short pitches). The route can be 
described as good rock, thin ice and snow covered traditional mixed climbing of 
a comparable grade and nature to Lessons of Oka.

We rappelled the recently bolted line of anchors, climbers left of the above 
mentioned variation down to our packs.

The trail remained cold enough that we kept our crampons on all a the way to 
the car.

Of note: many large Avalanches were heard yesterday but there was no visual 
signs other than the Bow Summit area.

Cheers 

Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
patrick.delaney@xxxxxxxxxxxx



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