Getting close to the ‘End of the Season’ for this route.
The canyon itself has filled in significantly and we had to post hole quite
a bit to get to the base of this route. Up to 50cm of new snow has fallen in the
canyon off the steep sidewalls and gullies. As a result the short ice
steps on the approach are getting even shorter.
The climb was way too wet for us to even complete the first pitch – which
was surprising given the –14c temperature at 0830 and shaded aspect of the
climb. Fully running water down the route made it difficult to find reliable
protection.
However, Lovely Parting Gifts was dry and in great shape.
Kristopher
Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide