[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 15, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 15, 2014 ACMG Mountain Conditions Report issued May 15th, 2014. The transition to spring continues, but overall conditions in the mountains seem to be a week or two behind ?normal?. Along the Continental Divide in the Rockies up to 250cm of snow is found at treeline, while at the Fidelity plot in Roger?s Pass the snowpack is still more than 300cm deep. Patience is key unless you seek out low elevation climbing or want to strap on the skis again. Ski-touring and ski-mountaineering options are plentiful with lots of the bigger objectives and traverses in great condition, however it may be necessary to walk through snow-free terrain at lower elevations to gain access. Good corn snow is found on all aspects except true north where it is still possible to find some dry powder at higher elevations. Supportive crusts provide good travel conditions until the daytime heat and solar radiation kicks in. Ski-crampons, and sometimes boot-crampons, are vital to safe and efficient travel on many of the objectives. Isothermal snow is encountered at lower elevations and is also common in shallow snowpack areas. The best strategy for ski-touring right now is to beat the heat with early starts and early finishes. Parks Canada and Kananaskis Country are still issuing intermittent updates to their Public Avalanche Bulletins. Avalanche hazard at this time of year is very closely linked to the quality of the overnight freeze (if any) and the extent of daytime heating and solar radiation. Rainfall, which rapidly deteriorates snow stability, will also be a consideration over the next several days if the weather forecast comes true. Loose wet avalanches are occurring daily and full-depth slab avalanche releases are possible especially when the snowpack is warm and/or moist. The Rockies and Columbias have not yet experienced a widespread spring avalanche cycle this season, but this could occur with heavy rain to mountain-top and/or a prolonged period of warming. Snow depths on the glaciers have likely peaked for the season, but many of the crevasse fields are more open than normal years. Guides continue to report that several of the ?standard? lines are more complex and hazardous than usual. Convexities and wind-prone areas are spots that could have thinner bridging over crevasses. There have been no recent reports of alpine climbing in either mountain range, probably because conditions are far from ideal (and are not likely to improve with this weekend?s weather forecast). Alpine rock routes still require significant time to melt off and dry out. Snow and ice routes are in transition from winter condition to spring condition, and should be evaluated carefully from an avalanche hazard perspective. As mentioned last week, very early starts are in order and carrying avalanche rescue gear would be a good idea. Rock climbing venues are shaping up well with most of the low elevation crags in good condition. Many of the multi-pitch cliffs in Revelstoke, Jasper, Banff and Canmore are a good option when the weather is nice, but there is still snow and ice lingering on ledges and in the deeper crack systems and gullies. Rock-fall generated by snow and ice melt is a concern, making the stepper face climbs a potentially better option than the darker corner and crack systems. A winter of frost-wedging will have loosened hand/foot holds and possibly compromised piton placements. Lots of ticks are out looking for their first meal of the season. Scrambling options are still fairly limited with even the typical early season objectives mostly snow bound. Lingering snow and ice on the routes can quickly up the ante from an easier scramble to a trip requiring mountaineering skills and equipment. The weather forecast for the long weekend is not particularly inspiring with a fair amount of rain and high freezing levels possible across much of the Rockies and Columbias. This could have serious ramifications to the avalanche hazard. Currently Jasper looks to be the driest of all the regions, but still has a chance of rain over the weekend. Higher elevation areas along the Continental Divide could see some wet snow. Kananaskis may be the hardest hit in terms of rain with more than 40mm expected. Don?t forget the umbrella! Play safe and have a great long weekend. Jeremy Mackenzie ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from 
this list.