[MCR] Mt Sir Donald NW Ridge, Rogers Pass, Selkirk Mtns

On July 2nd, I climbed the NW Ridge of Mt Sir Donald. The soft snow on the approach slopes (no overnight freeze and fairly warm temps) made for easy step-kicking to the col. Crampons and an ice axe would be useful if it were to freeze.

Most of the ridge is in excellent dry condition. Short sections of snow are easily negotiated by going around them or kicking steps up them. The last steeper bit, just before the summit, is quite snowy as is the rest of the way to the peak. The snow was isothermal and very unconsolidated.

The West Face Bypass is hazardous to use at this time. I saw and heard lots of rockfall and small wet sluffs. The lower portion of the bolted rappel line on the West Face is being affected by rockfall from patches of melting snow. I watched it get peppered by rocks, so I opted to continue back down to the Uto-Sir Donald col along the NW ridge.

All in all, the route is in pretty good shape but because of the snow near the top, be prepared to rappel short sections you normally would down-climb (extra sling/cord to back up the rap anchors would be handy).

If camping out, the the bivy sites at the Uto-Sir Donald Col are dry with snow nearby to melt for water.  Bivy biffy is in good condition and accessible for use.

--

Dean Flick

ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide

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